Australian Dress Register

This dress is a fine example of formal clothing worn at the end of the 19th century. Although the dress may have been initially made for a wedding it has been subsequently reworn for many an occasion. It has also been altered significantly to fit a larger lady evidenced not only by the waist extension but by the movement of the shoulder seams. It has also seen a change in fashion where some of the ties that may have supported a bustle structure have been cut off. With this well tailored dress made of a practical choice of silk fabric for our local climate, it is a good example of reuse and handing down. It was well cared for though some moth damage has occurred to the lace and some staining has been left by the red satin bows.

Author: Margaret Clarke, 20th May 2010.

An ensemble made of natural coloured tussah silk comprising of a fully lined jacket and skirt.

The skirt has two peplums at the front. The peplum on the left has dropped. The peplum and the side pocket are trimmed with hand knitted fine wool (possibly merino) lace. The skirt has a large crimson satin bow on the centre front sitting between both peplums. The skirt is completed by two rows of long pleats, which sit below these peplums. The lower silk pleats are sewn onto a calico underskirt in order to use less silk. These pleats are stiffened with gauze and supported by lengths of bias binding. The waistband has been extended by three inches at some point. It has two non-original hooks at waist and an original brass hook further down the opening. This 30cm deep opening also has a cotton tie as a closure.

Interestingly, the back left quarter of the calico lining has two channels with slits to support possibly a physical stiffener being threaded through. This quarter also has two series of fine ties for a purpose we cannot determine. There was another third wider set of ties set below the other two but these have been cut off at some stage. There are two tiers of material at the rear of dress, which form a bustle. The pocket is on the left hip.

The jacket has three matching crimson satin bows - there appears to be a fourth missing from just below the collar. Two rows of fine wool knitted lace trim also run down the front of jacket on either side of centre front and along its hemline. There are 10 beige buttons possibly made of a polished mineral that appear original. The jacket has puffed shoulders at the head of the sleeve dropping to a straight cut sleeve. Each cuff has a crimson satin bow and piping. The back of the jacket is formed from 5 pieces, which are tailored to draw in and define the waist. There is an internal twill waistband inside the bodice. There is a small watch pocket on the left side.

The collar appears to be possibly non-original. It is made of beige fine cotton and is of a double ruffle construction.