Ball gown possibly worn by Ann Marsden

Contributed by: Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences

Ball gown thought to have been worn by Ann Marsden, 1822, Photo: Sotha Bourn, Powerhouse Museum Ball gown thought to have been worn by Ann Marsden, 1822, Photo: Powerhouse Museum Ball gown thought to have been worn by Ann Marsden, 1822, Photo: Powerhouse Museum Ball gown thought to have been worn by Ann Marsden, 1822, Photo: Powerhouse Museum
  • Australian dress register ID:

    353
  • Owner:

    Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences
  • Owner registration number:

    A7882
  • Date range:

    1822
  • Place of origin:

    Parramatta, New South Wales, Australia
  • Gender:

    Female
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Object information

Significance statement

This 'Empire' style muslin gown and petticoat is one of a number of costumes in the Museum's collection that were worn by the Marsden family, and is believed to have been worn by Ann Marsden (1794 - 1885) to the Government House Ball in 1822. Ann was the daughter of Elizabeth Marsden and Reverend Samuel Marsden, a prominent figure in colonial New South Wales. On 1 January 1793, Marsden accepted the appointment as assistant to the chaplain of New South Wales. Ann was born on the ship 'William' during the eight month journey to Australia, and the family arrived in Port Jackson in March 1794. As the chaplain to New South Wales, Reverend Samuel Marsden endeavoured, with some success, to improve the standard of morals and manners. Samuel soon became a leading figure in colonial life, combining, sometimes controversially, his job as the colony's clergyman with that of magistrate, missionary, wealthy landowner and farmer.

Right from the beginning, the colonists of the remote penal settlement that became Sydney wanted to maintain a fashionable appearance. For Sydney's elite, fashionable dress confirmed their status in the colony, clearly defining not just wealth but also their moral superiority. The colonial elite, including the family of Samuel Marsden, eagerly awaited the irregular shipments of goods from Europe, India and China.

Balls held at Government House were a lavish affair, attended primarily by the families of government officials along with military and naval officers and their families. A T Yarood's account of Samuel Marsden's life reports: 'The Marsdens took little part in the fashionable world of Sydney; the dinner parties and balls held by the leaders of society were not graced by the four highly eligible daughters of the parsonage' (Yarwood 1977). The Marsdens were a pious family, which is reflected in the rather refrained style of their clothing, and were not frequent attendees of such lavish events. This ball gown is based on the same pattern as Ann's wedding dress. Ann was an excellent needlewoman and she may have made these gowns herself, or with the assistance of a local seamstress using fine tambour-embroidered muslin that was probably imported from India.

This dress is an example of one of the earliest surviving examples of colonial dress worn and made in Australia, and gives insight into both the life of the Marsden family and early colonial dress.

Author: Michelle Brown, 2007.

Description

A cream coloured muslin dress and silk petticoat, worn by Ann Marsden at a Government House Ball in 1822. The dress fabric features a thickly woven stripe (or rib) running vertically through it. The dress features a high rounded neck, which buttons down the back and there are ties at the back on the waist of the dress. It has an empire waist, long sleeves with lace cuffs at the wrists and short puff sleeves over the shoulders of the long sleeves. Around the hem of the skirt is a lace border with a scalloped edge. Floral motifs can be seen embroidered just above the lace border. The dress has been lined with cheesecloth, which is believed to be a later addition. The silk petticoat accompanying the dress has an empire waist, short sleeves and a square neckline. The sleeves, neckline and hem are trimmed with satin ribbon. There are ties at the back of the petticoat and a small covered button fastens at the back of the bodice.

History and Provenance

Births, deaths, marriages, children or family information

Ann was the daughter of Elizabeth Marsden and Reverend Samuel Marsden, a prominent figure in colonial New South Wales. On 1 January 1793 Marsden accepted the appointment as assistant to the chaplain of New South Wales. He married Elizabeth Fristan on 21 April the same year. The newly married couple, expecting their first child, left London on 1 July 1793 on the ship 'William'. Ann was born during the eight month journey to Australia and the family arrived in Port Jackson in March 1794.

On 12 August 1822, Ann Marsden married Reverend Thomas Hassall (1794 - 1868). Thomas had opened the first Sunday school in Australia in May 1813 and had been ordained a deacon on 15 April 1821 and a priest in June the same year. The Hassall family had long been friends with the Marsdens and the match was deemed appropriate to the social standing of a chaplain's daughter. Ann and Thomas had three sons and five daughters. Their eldest son, Reverend James Samuel, became a noted pioneer clergyman.

How does this garment relate to the wider historical context?

Right from the beginning, the colonists of the remote penal settlement that became Sydney wanted to maintain a fashionable appearance. For Sydney's elite, fashionable dress confirmed their status in the colony, clearly defining not just wealth but also their moral superiority. It was to Britain and France that they looked for news of the latest fashions and hand coloured fashion plates inserted in monthly periodicals provided them with details of the latest silhouettes, hairstyles and accessories. More immediate news was obtained by examining the dress of women of the latest shipboard arrivals from England. The colonial elite, including the family of Samuel Marsden, eagerly awaited the irregular shipments of goods from Europe, India and China. At first the lack of local stores, dressmakers, tailors and supplies meant they frequently relied on friends and family 'at home' to purchase and ship the latest styles. By the 1820s commerce was thriving and a wide range of dressmaking and tailoring skills were locally available, however many still preferred the prestige of a European import.

Balls held at Government House were a lavish affair, attended primarily by the families of government officials along with military and naval officers and their families. A T Yarwood's account of Samuel Marsden's life reports: 'The Marsdens took little part in the fashionable world of Sydney; the dinner parties and balls held by the leaders of society were not graced by the four highly eligible daughters of the parsonage' (Yarwood 1977). The Marsdens were a pious family, which is reflected in the rather refined style of their clothing, and were not frequent attendees of such lavish events. The Marsdens were quite wealthy by 1822 so could afford more elaborate local and important fashion. Although of good quality and finish, like Ann Marsden's wedding dress the dress is quite plain and discreet by the standard of contemporary English fashion, particularly for a ball gown. Ann was an excellent needlewoman and she may have made these gowns herself, or with the assistance of a local seamstress. The fine tambour embroidered muslin was probably imported from India.

This garment has been exhibited

The Royal Australian Historical Society exhibited the dress in 1920 alongside other Marsden family costumes given to the Society by the executors of the estate of Eliza Hassall. The dress was also exhibited from 10 May to 17 August 2003 in India, China, Australia: Trade and Society 1788-1850, an exhibition developed by the Historic Houses Trust and staged in the Museum of Sydney.

  1. Place of origin:

    Parramatta, New South Wales, Australia

  2. Owned by:

    The Marsden family costumes were given to the Royal Australian Historical Society in 1919 by the executors of the estate of Eliza Hassall (2/11/1834 - 26/12/1917), the granddaughter of Samuel Marsden. They were then transferred to the Powerhouse Museum in 1981.

  3. Worn by:

    Ann Marsden

  4. Occasion(s):

    Government House Ball

  5. Place:

    Old Government House, Parramatta, Sydney.

  6. Made by:

    Possibly made by Ann Marsden, perhaps with the assistance of a local seamstress.

  7. Made for:

    Ann Marsden.

Trimmings / Decoration

Ribbon

The sleeves, neckline and hem of the silk petticoat are trimmed with satin ribbon.

Lace

The long sleeves feature lace cuffs. There is a lace border with a scalloped edge around the hem of the skirt.

Embroidery

Floral motifs are embroidered just above the lace border on the hem of the skirt.

Fibre / Weave

Cream silk muslin dress with a silk petticoat. The fine tambour embroidered muslin was probably imported from India.

  1. Natural dye
  2. Synthetic dye

Manufacture

  1. Hand sewn
  2. Machine sewn
  3. Knitted
  4. Other

Cut

The dress is based on the same pattern as Ann Marsden's wedding dress and was reputedly worn in the same year to the Government House Ball. The dress is made in the 'Empire' style, with a high waist, long lace-cuffed sleeves and high round collar. The extremely high waist of the dress is some four years behind the fashion of the times. This may reflect the fact that fashion news was slow to arrive and be accepted in the colony.

  1. Bias
  2. Straight

Fastenings

The dress buttons down the back and there are ties at the back on the waist of the dress. There are also ties at the back of the petticoat and a small covered button fastens at the back of the bodice.

  1. Hook and eye
  2. Lacing
  3. Buttons
  4. Zip
  5. Drawstring

Measurements

dress
Girth
Neck 354 mm
Chest 568 mm
Cuff 90 mm
Hem circumference 1600 mm
Vertical
Front neck to hem 1110 mm
Front waist to hem 980 mm
Back neck to hem 1110 mm
Back waist to hem 980 mm
Sleeve length 590 mm
Horizontal
Neck to sleeve head 125 mm
Cross back 340 mm
Underarm to underarm 340 mm
Fabric width 543 mm
Convert to inches

Additional material

Other related objects

The Marsden collection consists of a bonnet veil (c. 1800), a linen habit shirt (c. 1820), two silk day dresses (1825-35 and 1835), a muslin ball gown (1822) and John Marsden's dress (1802-3).

Link to collection online

Condition

State

  1. Excellent
  2. Good
  3. Fair
  4. Poor
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